Think Southeastern Colorado is nothing but flat prairie? Think again! Hidden just off the beaten path are dramatic canyons and scenic trails waiting to be explored. In this guide, we’ll take you to two unforgettable canyon hikes in the Comanche National Grassland near La Junta, Colorado. From prehistoric dinosaur tracks to sandstone cliffs and historic sites, this quiet section of the state offers two hikes that are ideal for a weekend hiking getaway.
- About Comanche National Grassland
- Preparation for Hiking in Vogel Canyon and Picketwire Canyon in the Comanche National Grassland
- Hiking in Vogel Canyon – A 3.1-Mile (5 km) Loop Hike
- Hiking the Picketwire Canyon Trail from the Withers Canyon Trailhead
- Not a Hiker? Consider the Picketwire Canyon Auto Tour
- Where to Stay for your Weekend of Hiking near La Junta, Colorado
- Hiking in the Comanche National Grassland: Pin It for Later!
- Final Thoughts on a Hiking Weekend in Southeastern Colorado
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About Comanche National Grassland
What is a National Grassland?
National grasslands are federally protected areas in the United States, managed by the U.S. Forest Service. Prairie and open plains characterize grasslands. Grasslands support a range of uses, including hiking, camping, grazing, hunting, and even limited resource extraction. Many are managed in conjunction with nearby national forests to streamline oversight and conservation efforts.
Comanche National Grassland
The Comanche National Grassland covers approximately 440,000 acres (178,062 ha) in southeast Colorado. It has its origins in the Dust Bowl of the 1930s, which depleted the topsoil and caused financial and personal ruin for residents of southeastern Colorado.
The federal government purchased large swaths of this affected land during the New Deal of the 1930s. New land-use programs promoted restoration and conservation efforts.
In 1954, the Department of Agriculture’s Soil Conservation Service transferred the land to the US Forest Service. Six years later, in 1960, the Forest Service designated the area as the Comanche National Grassland. Inhabited for at least 4,500 years, the grassland is named after the Comanche tribe, which dominated the southern Great Plains from the 18th to the late 19th century.
The Comanche National Grassland contains short-grass prairies as well as rugged canyons rimmed by pinyon-juniper forests.
The Comanche National Grassland comprises two units. The Carrizo Unit is situated in the far southeastern area of Colorado, near the borders with Oklahoma, New Mexico, and Kansas. It’s in the watershed of Carrizo Creek, a tributary of the Cimarron River.
The Timpas Unit south of La Junta, Colorado, is the subject of this post. The Timpas Unit is located in the watershed of the Purgatoire River, also known as the Purgatory and Picketwire River.
La Junta is southeastern Colorado, approximately 68 miles (109 km) east of Pueblo on the south bank of the Arkansas River.
Preparation for Hiking in Vogel Canyon and Picketwire Canyon in the Comanche National Grassland
With good preparation, your hikes in Vogel Canyon and Picketwire Canyon should be safe and successful. In general:
- Pack plenty of water, sun protection, layers (including rain protection), and any necessary food.
- There is no potable water at either hiking site or in the canyons. Bring more water than you think you need.
- Check weather conditions and trail statuses before heading out.
- Note that weather conditions in the canyons may differ from the terrain above.
- Respect the natural and historical sites—leave no trace.
- Prepare for extreme heat conditions.
- The Forest Service office for the Timpas Unit of the Comanche National Grassland is located at 1420 East 3rd Street in La Junta, CO 81050. The main phone number is (719) 384-2181.
Sequence of Hikes in the Comanche National Grassland
The two hikes can be done on consecutive days. Vogel Canyon Hike will be shorter and less strenuous than the Picketwire Canyon hike.
Decide whether you want to do the shorter hike in Vogel Canyon first as a warm-up, or if you want to do the more challenging hike in Picketwire Canyon first and take it easy the second day.
Easy -> Hard?
Personally, I arrived in La Junta on a Friday in time for dinner, and rose early on Saturday to make the 45-minute drive to Picketwire Canyon for the long hike.
On Sunday, I didn’t have to get up quite so early to hike in Vogel Canyon since it’s closer to La Junta. Following the hike, which was less than two hours, I departed directly for home.
There’s no right or wrong, just choose what works for you. But let’s start the hike descriptions with Vogel Canyon.
Hiking in Vogel Canyon – A 3.1-Mile (5 km) Loop Hike
A hike in Vogel Canyon is an outdoor scavenger hunt. In this canyon area, you’ll search for Native American Petroglyphs, two springs, homestead ruins, the ruins of a stagecoach stop, and a canyon overlook. You must hike on three of the area’s four trails to see these sights. Hiking in Vogel Canyon also takes you through different ecosystems. The canyon bottom features a riparian environment, while the surrounding sandstone formations create an impressive canyonland. And of course, the shortgrass prairie surrounds it.
There are several interpretive signs at the trailhead, including one with a rough trail map and the approximate location of the landmarks. All trails are rated easy to moderate. The elevation at the trailhead is about 4,386 feet (1337 m).
Vogel Canyon Trails
I’ll note that the Forest Service Map does not line up precisely with the trails as shown on AllTrails. I followed AllTrails maps and found them to be accurate. Here’s a summary of the four trails in Vogel Canyon.
These trails do not form a perfect loop. However, I’ll suggest a loop route that passes all the landmarks and uses all four trails. The trail sequence starting at the picnic area/trailhead is as follows: Canyon Trail, Prairie Trail, Mesa Trail, Overlook Trail to the Overlook, and then backtrack on the Overlook Trail to return to the start.
This loop is about 3.1 miles (5 km) and has about 134 feet (41 m) of elevation gain. Look for cairns and other markers to locate and stay on trails.
Starting the Vogel Canyon Loop
From the trailhead, you can take either the Canyon Trail or the Overlook Trail. I recommend taking the Canyon Trail first because the Petroglyphs near the end of this trail are the most popular thing in the canyon. The Canyon Trail begins a gentle descent toward the canyon bottom, passing over sandstone rocks.
Westbrook Homestead Ruins
About half a mile (0.8 km) into this trail, take a short spur trail to the Westbrook Homestead Ruins–the remains of an acreage established during the Great Depression (1930s). These ruins feature a fireplace, low walls, and foundations constructed from native stone.
The Vogel Canyon Petroglyphs
After viewing the ruins, return to the Canyon Trail and continue the hike. Native Americans lived in the canyon 300 to 800 years ago. The rock art they created is still visible today. At the base of the rock wall on your left, look for a spur trail directing you to the Petroglyph site. It will require a short climb to the rock art area. Signs warn against vandalism and inform that the area is under surveillance.
There has been so much vandalism at this petroglyph site that, unfortunately, it’s a little disappointing. It is challenging to distinguish original rock carvings from the multitude of later additions. Some of the original carvings are quite faint, while the modern graffiti, scratched and drawn nearby, seems much more prominent.
Archaeologists and other scientists study rock art for clues about past cultures. As such, each piece of Native American rock art is an irreplaceable part of the long legacy of human occupation of the canyon. However, this opportunity is fading in Vogel Canyon due to the excessive amount of graffiti overlaying the Native American designs. These ancient cultural resources, once damaged, mean lost information and a broken connection to the past.
The petroglyphs are simply not replaceable. Even touching the carvings is prohibited, as this can accelerate the deterioration of the rock surface. So come to Vogel Canyon to discover the remaining rock art and learn the lesson that disturbing a site like this destroys irreplaceable resources.
Once you’ve seen enough of the petroglyphs, move back to the main trail.
The Springs in Vogel Canyon
Descending from the petroglyph site and returning to the Canyon Trail, you might notice a pool of water from a natural spring just as the trail makes a sharp turn to the right and becomes the Prairie Trail.
One of the reasons that Vogel Canyon attracted Native American Tribes and early settlers was the presence of water from springs like this one. Some sources report up to seven different springs in the Vogel Canyon hiking area, but the Forest Service’s trail map shows only two springs.
The second spring is a short distance ahead on the Prairie Trail. On a May visit, the only sign of this spring was the presence of much greener grass in the spring area. If you’ve seen more water at this spring site, leave a comment below!
I found the route for the Prairie Trail to be somewhat obscured by grasses. Follow the marked signs and cairns to stay on the trail.
Stagecoach Station Ruins
Continuing on the Prairie Trail, you’ll be in the canyon bottom with rock formations on either side. Part of the Prairie Trail in Vogel Canyon was a stagecoach route in the 1870s, run by the Barlow and Sanderson Mail and Stage Line. The route was a spur off the Santa Fe Trail (between Las Animas and Trinidad, Colorado).
As the Prairie Trail approaches its intersection with the Mesa Trail, building ruins with low walls and foundations of native stone will appear on the right side. These are remnants of a Barlow and Sanderson Stage Line stagecoach station. The canyon walls provided shelter for this pioneer stopping point.
The Mesa Trail
The intersection of the Prairie Trail and the Mesa Trail is marked with a sign. From the Prairie Trail, turn right on the Mesa Trail to climb back up to the mesa top, traversing a large area of shortgrass prairie. The Mesa Trail will come to a ‘T‘ junction with the Overlook Trail.
If you would like to hike the entire Prairie Trail, continue until it reaches “David Canyon D Road”, which was part of the old stagecoach route. To return to the trailhead, turn right on David Canyon D Road for approximately 1 mile (1.5 km) and continue to the intersection with Forest Service Road 505A (the entrance road to the picnic area and trailhead). At Forest Service Road 505A, turn right for 0.25 miles (0.4 km) to return to the trailhead. See the trail map below.
The Canyon Overlook
To get to the overlook point from the intersection of the Mesa Trail and the Overlook Trail, which is considered accessible, turn right. At the overlook spot, you can survey the places you previously passed in the canyon. When you’ve had your fill of the view, turn around and retrace your steps. Pass the intersection with the Mesa Trail and continue to the trailhead and picnic area to finish the hike.
Practical Information for Hiking in Vogel Canyon
- Covered picnic tables with grills and a vault toilet are located near the trailhead.
- No drinking water is available.
- No camping is allowed.
- Open year-round for day use only.
- No fee – visiting Vogel Canyon is free of charge.
- Be on the lookout for rattlesnakes, tarantulas, and cacti.
Driving Directions to Vogel Canyon from La Junta, Colorado
The Vogel Canyon Picnic Area and trailhead for the canyon hike are approximately 15 miles (24 km) south of La Junta via CO-109 S and County Road 802 (David Canyon Road).
- Forest Service Page for Vogel Canyon Picnic Area
- Adams Avenue in La Junta becomes CO-109 S.
- Official Forest Service Directions:
From La Junta, drive south on Highway 109 for 13 miles (21 km); turn right (west) on County Road 802 (David Canyon Road) for 1.5 miles (2.4 km). Turn left (south) on Forest Service Road 505A for 1.5 miles (2.4 km) to the Vogel Canyon parking lot. - The route is well-marked; look for signs to the Vogel Canyon Picnic Area
- Google Plus Code: QFCP+3R La Junta, Colorado
- County Road 802 and Forest Service Road 505A are unpaved.
- Approximately a 25-minute drive from downtown La Junta
Trail Map for the Vogel Canyon Loop Hike
I’ve posted the route for my Vogel Canyon Loop Hike on AllTrails, in case you’d like to follow it. Note that routes and distances are approximate.
Click here if you don’t see the map or would like to view the original.
Hiking the Picketwire Canyon Trail from the Withers Canyon Trailhead
After the multiple trails of Vogel Canyon, hiking the Picketwire Canyon is relatively straightforward, as it takes place on a single trail. The whole trail is 8.5 miles (13.7 km) long one way. However, the recommended hike here is an out-and-back route of 11.4 miles (18.3 km) with an elevation gain of approximately 570 feet (174 m). The hike starts at the Withers Canyon Trailhead. The elevation at the trailhead is about 4,633 feet (1,412 m).
The main draw of this long hike in the Picketwire Canyonlands is a dinosaur track site, which is the endpoint of the recommended hike. But this is not just any dinosaur tracksite: we’re talking about the most extensive assemblage of dinosaur trackways in North America. There are over 1,900 individual footprints, organized into approximately 130 separate trackways. These imprints, dating back to the Late Jurassic period (approximately 150 million years ago), are situated on a quarter-mile (400 m) expanse of bedrock along the banks of the Purgatoire River.
Preparing for the Hike in Picketwire Canyon
This is a long hike in a remote, semi-arid, exposed environment with minimal shade. Again, check the weather forecast before hiking, and plan for extreme heat. Temperatures can soar into the upper 90s (32+°C) and above in the summer, and remain in the 80s (27+°C) through September.
There is no potable water in the canyon. The Forest Service recommends that each hiker carry at least one gallon of water per person.
Additionally, the Forest Service states that “visitors should be in excellent physical condition” because of the trail’s length and difficulty.
Additional safety information, including instructions for self-rescue, if needed, is posted at the trailhead.
⚠️These precautions are not exaggerated. In 2017, there were two heat-related deaths in Picketwire Canyon. In 2024, search and rescue teams treated five people in Picketwire Canyon for heat-related injuries.
Things to See on the Picketwire Canyon Trail
The Withers Canyon Trailhead is near the edge of a bluff. Within the first third of a mile (600 m) or so, the trail descends about 255 feet (78 m) to the canyon bottom area. This is the only steep section of the trail. Once at the bottom, there are only gradual changes in elevation as the trail progresses.
The route passes through the wide Purgatoire (Picketwire) Canyon with views of epic bluffs and mesas throughout. Following the base of the bluffs, the trail roughly parallels the course of the Purgatoire River. The naming of this river and the Picketwire Canyonlands has an interesting backstory.
Naming the Purgatoire River and the Picketwire Canyon
According to legend, a band of Spanish soldiers searching for treasure perished in the canyonlands without receiving last rites. In their memory, early Spanish explorers named the nearby river El Río de las Ánimas Perdidas en Purgatorio—”The River of Souls Lost in Purgatory.” Later, French trappers simplified the name to Purgatoire. When Anglo-American travelers came through on the Santa Fe Trail, they struggled to pronounce “Purgatoire,” eventually twisting it into the more familiar, but linguistically distant, “Picket Wire.” Picket Wire is often spelled “Picketwire” as one word.
The Dolores Mission and Cemetery
About 4 miles (6.4 km) into the hike, the ruins of the Dolores Mission and Cemetery come into view. According to the US Forest Service, eleven Mexican families established the first permanent settlement here in the 1870s. Because of the importance of religious institutions in the Hispanic community, homesteader Damacio Lopez sold a small land parcel to a priest in the Denver diocese of the Catholic Church in 1889. Subsequently, a church called the Dolores Mission was built sometime between the late 1880s and the early 1890s. The church donated the land to the US Forest Service in 2007.
The stone masonry and adobe construction here were a blend of Hispanic and Euro-American influences.
The headstones in the small cemetery are captivating, even though they are untended and surrounded by cactus and other native plants. It’s believed that blank stones were imported, then decorated as needed. Unfortunately, most headstones mark the graves of young children. The care taken to personalize these markers and the elaborate designs etched into the stone are still poignant, even over 100 years later.
Headstones in the ruins of the cemetery at the Dolores Mission
The Dinosaur Shoulder Bone Replica
The Forest Service has placed an instructive diversion one mile (1.6 km) past the Dolores Mission around the 5-mile mark (8 km). A life-sized replica of a massive dinosaur shoulder bone, the scapula, sits on an exposed rock. The replica is an exact copy of the real bone found in 2008 in a quarry in the Picket Wire Canyonlands.
The shoulder bone came from an Apatosaurus, one of the largest land animals that ever existed. Apatosaurus was a sauropod—a long-necked, plant-eating dinosaur. Along with the shoulder bone, the quarry yielded about half of the Apatosaurus skeleton. Several other sauropod bones were also present.
These original Apatosaurus bones are about 148 million years old, dating back to the Jurassic Period. The replica Apatosaurus scapula is almost 8 feet (2.4 m) long! Based on comparisons with similar skeletons, scientists estimated that the dinosaur was approximately 98 feet (30 meters) long and weighed nearly 40 tons (over 88,000 kg).
Keep this information in mind as you make the final push to the dinosaur tracksite, which features Apatosaurus tracks.
Arriving at the Picketwire Canyons Tracksite
Further along the trail, you’ll see signs directing you to hang a left at the vault toilets to approach the Purgatoire River and the main attraction of this hike: North America’s largest dinosaur tracksite! The Picketwire Canyons Tracksite is also called the Purgatoire River track site. There are several interpretive signs in this area explaining the conditions that led to the discovery of dinosaur footprints here.
The numerous tracks are found in the limestone of the Jurassic Morrison Formation. The Morrison Formation is considered the richest source of dinosaur fossils in North America. (It’s named for Morrison, Colorado. Some of the first fossils in the Morrison formation were discovered by Arthur Lakes in 1877.)
The site in Picketwire Canyon was once at the edge of a brackish freshwater lake, where dinosaurs walked along the muddy shoreline. As geologic processes created a rock layer, the footprints solidified.
Notably, the site features parallel trackways of Apatosaurus, a quadrupedal dinosaur, suggesting that these animals traveled in groups; other footprints are attributed to Allosaurus, a large theropod that walked on two legs. Apatosaurus was a plant-eater, while Allosaurus was a carnivore.
Viewing the Dinosaur Footprints and Tracks
Some of the footprints are submerged in the river water, and a significant number of tracks and trackways are located on the opposite side of the river. Alas, the river was absolutely unsafe to cross when I visited in mid-spring, so I haven’t (yet) seen those tracks.
Still, the different footprints I did see were impressive. The bright side was that with recent rains, many dinosaur footprints were filled with water, making them easier to see and follow.
I spent some time here searching for different footprints and following the tracks before beginning the return hike to the Withers Canyon Trailhead.
The world’s longest track of dinosaur footprints is also in Colorado! The West Gold Hill Dinosaur Track near Ouray, Colorado, has 134 consecutive footprints and is 106 yards (97 m) long. The fossilized footprints belonged to a single sauropod dinosaur and are around 150 million years old. This site can be accessed via the steep, 2-mile (3.2 km, one way) Silvershield Trail.
Rourke Ranch National Historic District
The hike described here ends at the dinosaur track site, but this is not the end of the fascinating history in Picketwire Canyon. The trail continues for an additional three miles (4.8 km) down the canyon to the historic Rourke Ranch. The land became the Rourke Ranch National Historic District in 2000.
Some Facts about Rourke Ranch
Established in 1871, the Rourke Ranch was a cattle and horse ranch. Original owners Eugene and Mary Rourke raised ten children on the ranch, which began with 40 acres (16.2 ha). Three generations worked to make the Rourke Ranch one of the most successful in the southwest. By 1971, when it was sold, the property had expanded to 50,000 acres (20,234 ha).
The Ranch is also renowned for its adobe architecture and high-quality workmanship.
Should you Hike to Rourke Ranch?
Continuing to Rourke Ranch would result in a 17-mile (27.4 km) round-trip hike. This distance in the hot, dry environment of the Picketwire Canyon was not doable for me, nor, I suspect, for many others. But there is another way. To visit Picketwire Canyon, including Rourke Ranch, without the long hike, see the next section on visiting the canyon on a ranger-guided auto tour.
Not a Hiker? Consider the Picketwire Canyon Auto Tour
For those who prefer not to hike, the U.S. Forest Service offers guided auto tours of Picketwire Canyon during select weekends in the spring and fall. These tours require participants to provide their own high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicles.
Reservations are required. This eight-hour tour costs $20 and visits the dinosaur tracksite, the Dolores Mission and Cemetery, and the Rourke Ranch National Historic District.
Knowledgeable guides provide information on these sites, as well as insights into Native American history and the natural features of the canyons. If you’re interested in the Picketwire Canyonlands Guided Auto Tour, visit the official recreation.gov website to book.
Practical Information for Hiking in Picketwire Canyon
- A vault toilet is located near the trailhead and at the dinosaur tracksite. An additional vault toilet is at the Rourke Ranch.
- No drinking water is available.
- Camping is only allowed in designated areas at the Trailhead—no camping in the canyon.
- Dispersed camping is available three miles (4.8 km) away at the Picket Wire Corrals Interpretive Site.
- Open year-round for day use only
- No fee – visiting Picketwire Canyon/Withers Canyon Trailhead is free.
Driving to the Picketwire Canyon
The Withers Canyon Trailhead is the starting point for the Picketwire Trail. It’s about 33 miles (53 km) south of La Junta.
- Forest Service Page for Withers Canyon Trailhead
- Adams Avenue in La Junta becomes CO-109 S.
- Official Forest Service Directions:
From La Junta, Colorado, drive south on Highway 109 for 13 miles (21 km); turn right (west) on County Road 802 (David Canyon Road) and continue for 8 miles (12.9 km). Turn left (south) on County Road 25 and travel for 6 miles (9.7 km). Turn left at Picket Wire Corrals onto Forest Service Road 500A. Travel along Forest Service Road 500A for 3 miles (4.8 km), following the signs to Withers Canyon Trailhead. Park at the Withers Canyon Trailhead parking loop. - Google Plus Code: MC5H+VC La Junta, Colorado
- The route is well-marked; look for signs to the Withers Canyon Trailhead
- All roads except Highway 109 are unpaved and may be closed in muddy conditions
- Approximately a 45-minute drive from downtown La Junta
- The Picket Wire Corrals Interpretive Site, on the way to the Withers Canyon Trailhead, offers corrals for public equestrian use. The site includes restrooms and interpretive signs.
- Forest Service Page for the Picket Wire Corrals Interpretive Site
- Google Plus Code: M95J+G2 La Junta, Colorado
Trail Map for the Picketwire Canyon Hike
This public route is from AllTrails:
Don’t see the map or want to see the original? Click here.
Where to Stay for your Weekend of Hiking near La Junta, Colorado
The Vogel Canyon and Picketwire Canyon hikes are the best hikes near La Junta, Colorado. With a population of around 7,100, La Junta is a small but well-equipped town that makes an ideal home base for hiking excursions in the Comanche National Grassland (Timpas Unit). While it’s a quiet place, it offers everything you need for a comfortable and convenient weekend getaway—lodging, dining, grocery stores, and gas stations.
The Hampton Inn La Junta and Holiday Inn Express La Junta each feature a complimentary hot breakfast, indoor pool, and fitness center. Both hotels are pet-friendly.
La Junta also has several local motels, such as the Stagecoach Motel, that are well-located and budget-friendly, offering basic, clean, and comfortable rooms.
Vacation rentals are also available, as well as quaint cabins near a campground..
Whatever your preference, use the map and links below to research and book your accommodations in La Junta.
Book now at Booking.com ♦ Book now at Expedia ♦ Book now at Hotels.com
Hiking in the Comanche National Grassland: Pin It for Later!
I created these pins for the Vogel Canyon and Picketwire Canyon hikes to share on your Pinterest Boards.
Final Thoughts on a Hiking Weekend in Southeastern Colorado
Vogel Canyon and Picketwire Canyon offer unforgettable hiking experiences in Southeastern Colorado’s Comanche National Grasslands. The mix of ancient petroglyphs, wide-open prairie, dinosaur tracks, and historic sites reveals stories and sights you won’t find anywhere else. Consider these canyons near La Junta, Colorado, for your next weekend getaway to enjoy the southeastern Colorado landscape.
What a fascinating place. I don’t know why, but I was moved to see the fireplace, wondering who built it, and how they lived, and why no othr remnants of the dwelling they lived in survived. I also wondered when I saw the spring, how would you know if the water was potable – safe to drink?
I’m glad you enjoyed this post! Some building ruins in the form of low rock walls are near the fireplace at the Westbrook homestead site, just not pictured. The Forest Service says the water is not drinkable. I don’t know how early travelers or settlers determined if the water was potable at that time. Just another one of the difficult challenges they faced.
Picketwire and Vogel Canyons look like a wonderful change of pace after doing a lot of mountain hiking in Colorado. We haven’t had a chance to explore the La Junta area, but look forward to visiting.
For sure, it’s a different landscape on the great high prairie. I hope you get to visit soon!